Thursday, June 24, 2004

Sightseeing in Dublin

The next morning I awoke to find that Joe had found his way home.  Hurray!  We got ourselves together and visited the restaurant for the celebrated Irish breakfast.  It was overwhelming wonderful, as always.  It begins with cereal, toast, fruit,  juice and yogurt.  Then you advance to the buffet for eggs, sausage, bacon (that is nothing like our whimpy substitute), black/blood pudding, potatoes, more fruit, more toast, and scones.  Finished off with the most delicious coffee I have ever guzzled, I mean swallowed.

Off to see the sights. From the top left, clock wise....foot bridge over the River Liffey and the wonderful boardwalk that runs next to parts of the river.  Early morning shot on a beautiful day.

A child feeding the pigeons in St. Stephens Green, the most beautiful and manicured public garden nestled close to Trinity College.  The garden has a enclosed area for a childrens playground, many sculptures and fountains.  A delightful refuge from the noisy Dublin traffic.

Cobblestone street around  the Temple Bar area awash in the soft morning light.

Trinity College where we took a walking tour of the college.  We were suppose to sign up to take a walking tour of Dublin, but somehow we got mixed up and did not realize it until too late!  The tour was well worth the hour we spent learning the history of the  Protestant college, begun in the early 1500's.  Our tour guide was a professor and a student at the illustrious institution.  He had excellent dry wit and a droll delivery that kept Joe and I in stiches.

The famous Central Bank is situated in an area that is  very limited for  parking...virtually non-existent.  This dapper gent  in top hat and tails makes sure that everyone is in the right spot at the right time. I could never seem to get a picture of his front!

Elvis lives and he is on the streets of Dublin.  I spotted him numerous times, usually in upper windows gazing down on the bustling streets.

Wednesday, June 23, 2004

Off of Dame Street

That is how we ended up a day earlier in Dublin that we anticipated.  The car rental place took the car back but not any of our money did they give back!  We did get a ride to the Airport where we (once again) hopped on the Blue Coach and rode to the old part of Dublin, the downtown area.  We disembarked in front of Trinity college and then walked around in circles, dragging our luggage looking for Bloom Hotel.

I had made the reservation from the pay phone at the airport. Yes they did have rooms (dance of joy), yes it was affordable, (jump for joy) and an Irish breakfast was included (tears of joy)...but, "We are in the midst of Temple Bar. It does get a little noisy at night.".  Even though my Aunt Kitty had warned us about even visiting Temple Bar, Dublin's Left Bank, it sounded intriguing.  More so now that even the front desk reservations found it necessary to forewarn us.

Walking around the narrow cobblestone streets between the bank and the River Liffey we came across a street sign that said, "Blooms Hotel".  And as if a miracle had happened there it was in all its yellow glory, about a half a block from Trinity college!

We checked into our room.  Two single beds, a 13 inch black and white TV, a desk and one chair.  The room was very warm, so we pried open the window to let in the Irish air. We were pleased to find that the view, if you craned your neck and stuck your head out the window, included the Plaza of the Central Bank.  In the middle of the Plaza was a golden globe, representing the world I would think.

We wasted little time in the room, and ran down to experience the night life of Dublin in the infamous Temple Bar area.

We went right into the hotel bar, called The Vat and immediately began to meet an assortment of characters. We  were drinking pints of Guinness and my favorite Smithwicks, and began to  purchase rounds for each other.  We were swapping stories about our roots in Ireland, and theirs in the States.  It was so much fun! 

So much fun that when I finally made it into the lift to return to the room, I had lost Joe.  I had also forgotten to settle up with the bar! 

My first night in downtown Dublin, and I was already had turned into one of the depraved degenerates that Aunt Kitty had warned me about.

P.S.  That is me in the middle in the pink.

Sunday, June 20, 2004

To Dublin

We leave Galway and head east to Dublin on the N6.  This route is not direct, but travels in a zig zag path to arrive at our destination.  We passed through so many quaint towns with the lyrical names that define Ireland.  It was in  Ballinasloe that the above picture was taken.  An innocent Brinks type truck delivering or transporting money to the bank accompanied by ten armed guards (can you see the guns!).  Its not easy being a bank robber in Ireland!

Thursday, June 17, 2004

Weather report: A Bright Day with Sunny Spells

The next day we walked to downtown Galway and continued to shop and compare pubs.  Interesting fact, the pubs do not open until noon!  Jesus, Mary and Joseph!

The day was indeed sunny with lots and lots of tourists to share the narrow streets.  The charming quality was highlighted by the abundance of street entertainers and musicians.   

I caved and  gave Joe a reprieve...we headed back to Dublin to turn in the car, cut our tour short and just hang out in the old part of Dublin around Trinity College known as Temple Bar.  

We were warned by my Aunt Kitty to steer clear of this area.  It is a known magnetic for derelict enthusiasts (reportedly from England)  who end up puking in the streets at all hours.

..........hmmmmmmm

Spanish Arches on a Rainbow making Day

Jumping off the bus we headed into the bustling charming merchant center of the town.  This particular area of the downtown has been closed to traffic!  The narrow streets were jam packed with delightful shops and pubs.  This was at one time the major port of trade for the Spanish in Ireland, hence the remaining ancient structure known as the Spanish Arches on the bay directly down from the Claddagh bridge.

This is where Joe and I commenced to serious shopping.  Keeping a tradition that has been in my family for three generations, I purchased a Claddagh ring for Bridget at the famous Fallers Jewelers on Williamsgate Street.  Strangely enough, I took my Claddagh ring off for inspection to determine if it had been purchased at Fallers (each is stamped with the jewelers special seal) and it broke at the connection of the hands to the heart.  "This is an omen to purchase a new one" the sales person solemnly told me.  No, my Mom gave it to me 30 years ago. I will have it repaired.  You do not mess with tradition.

Joe and I continued in our quest for the most perfect pub in Ireland and had several contenders in Galway.  I like the Sally Long Pub. A biker hang out!  I loved the mural on the wall depicting the last supper with Elvis, David Bowie, Axel Rose, Prince...just to name a few.  We tasted our first Mickie Finn!  Butterscotch schnapps.  Wonderful.  

The Spanish Hotel Bar was too good to be true.  We ate dinner there and Joe experienced scones for the first time! His remark was, "I'd jump over two tomato's to get to that scone."  

For the first and only time while in Ireland, we called it an early night and crashed after our long day in the mist, the dews and the rainbow making showers of Ireland

 

Tuesday, June 15, 2004

City of the Tribes

We arrived in Galway around 2pm and quickly found alongside the N-6, The Ryan Hotel.  A mere 49 Euro apiece we could have a room (two double beds)! a large color tv, modern facilities, (i.e., lots of hot water for the shower), and a telephone.  We went back out into the parking lot to confer.  Joe was shaking his head at the expense. "But, an Irish breakfast is included!" I informed him. He threw up his arms, "Well, why didn't you say so!"  Actually I think he saw the little red vehicle sitting there waiting for him to take the wheel again, and the Irish breakfast enabled him to save face.  

Why do they call elevators lifts in Ireland?  I'll tell you why, because they are tiny!  Joe and I in an area that is no larger than a small closet with our luggage made me laugh.  No wonder the Europeans are all so slender! If they are claustrophobic they must take the stairs.  To take the lift, they must be thin.  

We decided to go into Galway City for the remainder of the day.  The public transport stop was directly across the street from the hotel.  We joined the group of people huddled under the shelter waiting for the bus.  It was still raining the way it does in Ireland, which means a heavy mist that at times is more heavy than others.  A mother walking her son home from school ducked under the shelter and speaking together in Irish, put on additional outerwear.  I was fascinated by the language.  At first, I thought I just could not grasp their accents, but then I realized it was Irish!  Musical and mysterious. 

Have I mentioned yet how friendly and nice most people are in Ireland?  Everyone with the exception of one barmaid were wonderful to us. Several times a day I had to rely on the kindness of strangers.  "Is this the bus downtown?", "Is this the way to Shop Street?", "What is the name of the bus to take us to....fill in the blank."  "How do I arrive at O'callaghansmill ?"(they laughed at this but still told us how). "Am I on the right road to the cliffs?" "Please, what is the telephone code for the states...Dublin...?"  They were wonderfully patient with us. 

All day long of being rained on, risking our lives and the lives of others by driving the small roads in the Burren, and almost hitting a cow we were on our way into the magical city of Galway,also know as the City of the Tribes.

Sunday, June 13, 2004

Missing the Dolmen

Leaving Ballyvaughan we headed back into the area of Co. Clare known as the Burren. The picture above is one from a post card.  I was unable to get Joe to pull over once he had a bead on Galway and the knowledge that once he got there he would not be driving again for at least 24 hours.  There was no stopping him.

We began the journey with a trip to Corkscrew Hill on the Kinvara road. Once we were on the mountain, there was no turning back!  If anyone has been into the mountains of Tennessee, West Virginia, and Kentucky and not on an interstate, you will understand what it was like climbing up the side of the mountain and down the other side.  A lot of S curves, trees hugging the road, and stone fences holding up the hillside so it would not plunge onto the roadway.  At one curve (I swear this) there is a driveway and a car inching their way out onto the N-67 from the left! "Look Out!" I alerted Joe.  "Jesus, Mary, and Joseph," he muttered in his new found Irish accent. 

Nothing could shake him very much after the mountain drive (and the cows), but stopping the vehicle was out of the question so I had to do with mentally making notes of the country side as it side past.  

The Burren....the hated Cromwell condemned this "inhospitable" landscape as having "not enough wood to hang a man, not enough water to drown him, not enough clay to cover his corpse."  

The name Burren means great rock.  And there is pleanty of it.  As far as eye can see.  The rock and stone fences of Kentucky pale and look like childs play compared to the magnificent structures that line the roadway and the fields between Ballyvaughan and Kinvara.  Enormous structures that are beautiful and astounding.

As we drove through, the travel guide was in the suitcase.  I had no idea what I was seeing.  It was just .......unbelievable.  Moon like, lunar like white rock spread out as far as the eye could see.  Following the road, the Atlantic ocean at times would appear in the picture as the back drop for this perplexing landscape.

What we missed, because we did not know to look for it, was the famous Poulnabrone Dolmen.  A structure that dates to 2500 BC.  It is an ancient monument that is common in this area of Ireland.  I assume because of the availability of the limestone slabs.  It has been referred to as a launching pad for a stone age missile. It actually is a grave that the Neolithic people built as a tribute to their dead.  The only thing similar that I can compare it to is Stonehenge in England.  

I wish I could have seen it.  It would have been well worth the effort to force Joe over.  I doubt there would have been a pub about for a pint though.